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barriers Existing Barriers Current extent evolving in absence of measures Industry connectivity: A platform oriented connection of these infrastructures is still lacking and only few centres of excellence have been initiated, mainly due to the strong activity of clusters in France and Norway +++ strong, ++ medium, + small, ↓suppressing barriers Cosmetics Value chains specific to the cosmetic sector The value chain concerning marine biotechnology in the cosmetics sector is presented in Figure 0.19; it is mainly about extracts. Extracts mean liquid or dry substances made by extracting (part of) a marine raw material by using a solvent such as ethanol or water. Mostly, marine living resources are used, in some cases also sediment (mud) or other non-living resources (amber, chalkstone, pearls etc.). Their target application is as active or functional ingredients in cosmetic formulations used for skin or hair care. Figure 0.19 The marine biotechnology value chain for the cosmetics industry sector ++ ++ barriers evolving with successful measures + ↓ The value chain begins with R&D activities on marine organisms (physiology, ecology, cultivation etc.), specific compounds therein and their effects on the skin or hair. First instance R&D activities are not necessarily starting “from scratch”, but can build on literature research and networking. It is widely acknowledged that there are undiscovered “biological nuggets” in the ocean, however, exploring the “marine biotechnology treasure” already available, e.g. in European universities, is easier and much more cost-effective than by bioprospecting in the deep sea. The next step in the value chain is the preparation (cleaning, freezing, drying, grinding etc.), resulting in certain cases in first marketable raw material, e.g. dried seaweed. Production of marine extracts is often linked with a special (combination of) techniques or machines which are unique for seaweed or other marine organisms and which themselves are marketable, e.g. as seaweed extraction facilities. This is particularly interesting for countries which hold abundant marine living resources (Indonesia, Philippines, Namibia, etc.) and plan to invest in value adding technologies. Prerequisites of following regulations have to be fulfilled and services for this supplied to evaluate product safety:  Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. It entered into force on 11 July 2013;  REACH is a regulation of the European Union Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 18 December 2006 concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH). It entered into force on 1 June 2007. 126 Study in support of Impact Assessment work on Blue Biotechnology

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