advanced significantly over the next few decades. By the 1930s, automated doughnut-making machines were producing the treats in huge quantities. And in the 1940s and 1950s, chains like Krispy Kreme and Dunkin’ Donuts sprang up, taking mass-produced doughnuts to the masses. In Canada, meanwhile, the name most often associated with doughnuts is Tim Horton, a former hockey player who lent his name to a nationwide chain of doughnut shops. Fond though I am of Krispy Kreme doughnuts, I have become increasingly aware that the doughnut illuminati don’t take them seriously. Indeed, with the passage of time, I too have become more discriminating when it comes to my fried dough rings, and I now prefer varieties that are larger, denser, and have unusual flavors. (There’s a place near me called Donut Panic, which—only on certain days of the week— makes these amazing vegan raised donuts with a texture you have to taste
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