Perspective Yes Chef! By MONISHA ADVANI At the time of making a reservation at a restaurant, I’m often politely asked “Any allergies or dietary preferences?” My response is consistent - I am allergic to hunger and prefer to not leave a table hungry. That pretty much sums up my qualifications to write this column. Of course, I sound facetious if I didn’t back the quip with a deep appreciation for the hands that feed me. And on top of the heap are the hands that lead those that feed. I am therefore utterly grateful, sometimes in awe and always curious for the role played by the chef. I met Chef Prateek Sadhu on an October evening in 2017. Masque had just opened to some placid reviews. A friend had suggested we form our own opinions. I value objectivity and, above all, a good meal. Seated at a table where we were literally the only three guests that evening, we had the undivided attention of the captain of the kitchen. With some tentativeness, Prateek introduced himself and the courses that followed. I must admit, that first meal was forgettable. It was good, expected, but not outstanding. Nothing screamed innovation. But the real dividend was Prateek himself. A uniquely relaxed demeanour, proud of his efforts but not arrogant, he stood by our table for a chat for over an hour. Right through that evening, one thing came across clearly – Prateek was a listener. He spoke carefully, listened intently, almost like the forager he is since applauded to be. Only the foraging this time was through the chatter of his guests, who admittedly dropped enough examples of meals had before in the company of celebrated chefs. Yup, mea culpa! He soaked what had worked for us, where the underwhelming tones were, what elevated the experience, and, most importantly, where the story was behind every dish. I could see that twinkle in his eye. He was rewriting his script. He was learning. We became friends that evening and remained in contact over social media. A few weeks later I stopped by the restaurant and dropped off some organic vinegar from Madikeri, and we discussed how this exotic potion broke down the toughest proteins. He nodded indulgently. (top right) Chef Prateek Sadhu. (right) one of the chef’s meticulously plated dishes 30 DECEMBER 2025 • FRESH.DAILYPIONEER.COM We made a deal that afternoon. The next time I ate at Masque, if the meal hit the right notes, I owed him homemade mutton biryani. Incidentally, this playful wager has since become a staple bribe I make to budding chefs! He called me a month later and asked me to come in for the revised tasting menu. Almost a decade later, I still remember each course... the ode to Mumbai – a lobster and mango ceviche with a drizzle of kasundi; the flaky katlam bread served with handchurned butter – from his childhood memories in Srinagar; and the star – the humble mackerel, painstakingly deboned, lightly poached and charred on the surface, served on rye toast dressed with a Kashmiri chilli paste... His menu told a story. Of a land of birth, to a journey to acquire technique, to the city he called home.
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