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THE WALNUT TREE ABERGAVENNY, WALES N estled beside the Brecon Beacons, the Michelin-starred Walnut Tree Inn near Abergavenny is one of the most famous restaurants in Wales – a food-lover’s destination since the early 1960s. Martin Mason went to discover a restaurant famed for letting the ingredients do the talking. Situated on the outskirts of Wales’s foodie town, the Walnut Tree has a long history as a culinary destination in Wales. One of the elder statesmen and big personalities of British cooking, Head Chef and Owner Shaun Hill, has been cooking in some of Britain’s best-known kitchens for a staggering 43 years. Hill is often referred to as ‘a chef’s chef’ and it’s not hard to see why. His menu is a regularly changing celebration, essentially, of the type of food he wants to eat himself. He has succeeded in putting the restaurant back on the culinary map with a rustic style of food that involves bold flavours and using local Welsh produce, some of which is grown in the restaurant’s own garden space that you can walk through when entering the restaurant. The building itself dates from Victorian times and the atmosphere is unpretentious with wooden floors and tables creating a cosy backdrop to the down-to-earth dishes. It buzzes with conversation instead of the occasional hushed whisper. And the serving team are warm and knowledgeable. An ever-changing menu includes local produce with saddleback pork, shoulder of lamb and fillet of beef all well represented. Starters might be lobster or pigeon and finely balanced fish dishes stand out amongst the mains, with my perfectly cooked John Dory being the highlight. Desserts are indulgent, think Cherry tart and gooseberry crème Brulee. The whole menu reflects an easy approach to food – it’s clear this is a place to enjoy rather than revere. Our verdict A visit to the Walnut Tree is more like entering your favourite country local than a feted Michelin star eatery. It is surprisingly unpretentious and all about the food. Our meal was a delight and virtually faultless. The Walnut Tree is a shining example of how to deliver informal but truly outstanding dining. Amazing Destinations 39 Photo credit: David Charbitt

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